How to prune a carob tree?
Carob is a tree that requires little pruning, unlike many fruit trees that require regular pruning every year. Once a solid crown skeleton has been established on the young tree, a light maintenance pruning is often sufficient. The difficulty in healing large cuts and the formation of fruit largely on old wood require moderate pruning of carob.
In this article, we discuss shape pruning in carob, maintenance pruning in adult trees, rejuvenation of old and neglected trees and pruning time in the light of international resources and practices in Turkey.
Why Does Carob Require Less Pruning?
According to the monograph published by IPGRI, carob is a species that requires little pruning, unlike other fruit and bark fruit trees that need to be pruned every year. Once the basic skeleton of the tree is formed, only light pruning is sufficient. This is due to the unique growth and fruiting habit of carob (Batlle and Tous, 1997). In the World Agroforestry Centre database, it is recorded that carob requires little pruning (Orwa et al., 2009).
The monograph lists three important characteristics to consider when pruning:
- The tree's natural tendency to form a central axis and strongly develop side shoots
- Formation of fruit on two old and older wood
- Sensitivity to large cuts that heal very slowly
These features determine the basic logic of pruning in carob. Since flowers and fruits form on old wood, thick branches and even on the trunk, removing more wood than necessary can lead to yield loss. Dahmani et al. also state that flowers bloom mainly on branches and stems that are more than two years old. The difficult healing of large cuts makes the tree vulnerable to rot.
In the investor guide of the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, it is stated that pruning can be done by removing dry branches in order for the carob tree to form a smooth and strong crown and to produce abundant and good crops for a long time.
Shape Pruning in Young Trees
Shape pruning (crown training) on the young tree determines the skeleton that the tree will carry for decades. According to the IPGRI monograph, traditional training methods were usually spherical or open vase shapes, with the first main branches starting 1.5 meters above the ground. Today, pruning is simpler and more straightforward.
An important distinction is made in the monograph regarding the height of the trunk: A short trunk (the first branching starting low) shortens the fruitless period of the tree, while a longer trunk should be preferred if mechanical harvesting is to be done with shaking machines. For this reason, the training method of the tree should be chosen according to the harvesting method to be applied in the future.
Free Vase (Goble) System
It is the recommended system for gardens where manual harvesting will be carried out. According to the IPGRI monograph, in this system the natural form of the young tree is respected and very light pruning is done in the first years or no pruning at all. Only the shoots that emerge from the periphery of the soil are removed and some shoots are broken off to prevent excessive growth on the lower branches.
After the tree starts to bear fruit, the first shape pruning is done. In this pruning, the lowest branches are removed over two years and a clean trunk with a height of 0.5–0.7 m is obtained. In this system, trees develop less in height and more towards width; this facilitates manual harvesting with a pole (Batlle and Tous, 1997).
In the Alanya Carob geographical indication certificate, the practice in Turkey is described as follows: When the grafting height of the saplings reaches one meter, the tops are cut off and the crown is formed; then, the branches that turn into the crown are taken and a tapestry pruning system is applied (Turkish Patent and Trademark Office, 2025).
Modified Central Axis System
Mechanical harvesting is the recommended system for planned gardens. According to the IPGRI monograph, in this system, four or five main branches are left, well spaced and evenly distributed along the trunk axis. The first main branch can be positioned at a height of about 0.9–1 m. In the first years, it is recommended to remove the tips in summer instead of cutting off some lower branches completely. This system creates a steeper crown and is more suitable for mechanical harvesting. It is also important that young trees are supported with stakes for several years.
| Feature | Free vase (tapestry) | Modified central axis |
|---|---|---|
| Proper harvesting method | Hand (pole shaking) | Mechanical (concussive) |
| Body height | 0.5–0.7 m clean hull | The first main branch is at about 0.9–1 m |
| Crown shape | Low and wide | Steeper |
| Pruning in the early years | Very light or no | Summer tip removal in lower branches |
Source: Batlle and Tous, 1997.
Maintenance pruning in adult trees
Pruning is done lightly and infrequently in adult carob trees. According to the IPGRI monograph, mature female, male and male trees form flowers on wood of all ages and require light pruning only every 3–4 years. The purpose of this pruning is to remove dry wood and to keep the fruiting wood alive by allowing sunlight to filter into the upper-middle part of the crown. It is also stated in the monograph that this process should be done especially in years when important crops are expected.
The main objectives of maintenance pruning can be summarized as follows:
- Removing dry branches
- Picking up branches that cross each other
- Removing branches that grow excessively steeply
- Allowing light to enter the crown
- Maintaining the balance between vegetative growth and the crop
- Keeping the tree within the allotted area in the garden
The monograph emphasizes that it is particularly important to limit the tree's growth and production to the space allotted to it in the garden. Compacted trees compete with each other for light, nutrients, and water; this leads to lost yields, increased pruning costs, and difficult harvesting. The same source states that well-cared-for trees can reach 6 meters tall in hot coastal climates, and fruit-bearing branches often hang down.
Which Branches, What Thickness?
It is necessary to avoid cutting thick branches, as carob is sensitive to large cuts. The IPGRI monograph recommends removing branches before they are too thick, not exceeding about 5–7 cm in diameter. This allows the tree to close its wounds more easily.
It is also important that the cuts are clean and neat. In the monograph, it is recommended to remove branches broken in a storm with a clean cut and apply putty to the cut surface so that it does not let rain in, since rotting can easily begin, especially in mature trees at the peak of the yield age.
Pruning Time
The best time to prune carob is immediately after harvest. According to the IPGRI monograph, the best time for pruning in terms of fruit yield is early autumn, immediately after the crop is harvested. In the same source, it is stated that light pruning on adult trees should be done occasionally and after harvest.
However, one point draws attention here: The main flowering period of carob also coincides with autumn, approximately September-November. For this reason, care should be taken not to damage the inflorescences that have just bloomed or are about to bloom, especially those on the old branches and trunk during pruning. We discuss the flowering and pollination process in a separate article.
In young trees, some of the shape pruning, such as tip removal on the lower branches, can be done in summer (Batlle and Tous, 1997).
Rejuvenation in Old and Neglected Trees
There are many old carob trees on our Mediterranean coasts that have been neglected for a long time. According to the IPGRI monograph, old and neglected orchards or abandoned trees can be rejuvenated by thinning pruning to increase production and regularize it.
Restructuring with Hard Pruning: A Research from Turkey
A study conducted in a natural carob forest population in Turkey examined the reintroduction of unproductive trees into production by pruning and grafting. In the study, two methods were applied to young and old unproductive trees: hard pruning and burning with hard pruning. The shoots formed afterwards were grafted (Balkıç et al., 2026).
The main results of the research regarding pruning are as follows:
- Both the method and the age of the tree significantly influenced the number of shoots formed.
- The highest number of shoots was obtained in older trees that were subjected to hard pruning, with an average of 114.44 shoots per tree.
- The thickest and longest shoots were also formed by hard pruning in old trees.
- It was concluded that both young and old trees are suitable for restructuring, and the recommended method is hard pruning.
These results show that carob can produce abundant shoots after hard pruning thanks to its strong root system. Hard pruning was applied here to obtain young and healthy shoots to graft the tree with a new variety. In the routine maintenance of a productive tree, light pruning is essential, as mentioned above. We discuss the grafting phase in our article "Grafting Techniques in Carob Tree".
Pruning, Yield and Periodicity
In carob, "one year abundant, one year less" crop order (periodicity) is common. According to the IPGRI monograph, the reasons for this situation include irregular rainfall, frost, fog, lack of pollination, damage to inflorescences during harvest, and deficiencies in garden management such as fertilization and pruning, as well as genetic structure. In other words, pruning alone does not solve periodicity; however, regular and measured pruning that maintains light balance is an important part of garden management.
The harvesting method is also closely related to pruning. In the monograph, it is stated that harvesting is the largest item of production cost in carob orchards and that hand harvesting accounts for approximately 30-35 percent of the total production cost. Keeping the trees at the appropriate height and crown shape makes harvesting easier, whether done with poles or machines. It is emphasized that trees of smaller height, upright growth and strong fruit branches are required for mechanical harvesting.
Common Mistakes in Pruning
Considering the principles in the sources, the following practices should be avoided in carob:
- Pruning the tree densely every year, like other fruit trees
- Removing the old wood from which the fruit is formed more than necessary
- Making large cuts on unnecessarily thick branches
- Leaving broken branches uneven or leaving cut surfaces unprotected
- Working in a way that damages the bunches during the flowering period
- Determining the form of training without thinking about the harvesting method
Frequently Asked Questions
When to prune a carob tree? According to international sources, the optimal time is early autumn, immediately after harvest. Care must be taken not to damage the inflorescences, as this period may coincide with flowering.
Should carob be pruned every year? Adult carob trees usually require light maintenance pruning every 3–4 years. Removing dry, broken and crossing branches is often sufficient.
Can an old carob tree be rejuvenated? Yes. Neglected old trees can be rejuvenated with thinning pruning. In a study conducted in Turkey, an average of 114 shoots were formed per tree in old trees that were pruned hard, and these shoots were successfully grafted.
Can thick branches be cut in carob? Large cuts in carob heal very slowly. Sources recommend removing branches before they become too thick, exceeding about 5-7 cm in diameter, and cut broken branches cleanly and protect the cut surface.
From Healthy Tree to Quality Product with Carob Türkiye
Moderate and timely pruning contributes to keeping the carob tree healthy for many years, receiving balanced light and facilitating harvesting. Little but correct pruning is the most suitable approach to the nature of this long-lived tree.
At Carob Türkiye, we supply carob fruit, crumbs, flour/powder, seeds, and extracts. Our Products Carob Fruit and Our Products For general information about carob What is Carob? You can read our article. For your wholesale and export requests Contact Now You can contact us on our page.
Domestic resources
Balkıç, R., Güler, S., Gübbük, H., "Reconversion of unproductive young and old carob (Ceratonia siliqua L.) trees into production", Black Sea Journal of Agriculture, 9(1), 45–50, 2026. doi.
org/ 10. 47115/ bsagriculture. 1762797 Turkish Patent and Trademark Office, "Alanya Carob / Alanya Carob – Mahreç Sign, Registration No: 1705", 2025. ci.
turkpatent. gov. en/ Files/ GeographicalSigns/ 7bbe4a8b- 399… Republic of Turkey Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, General Directorate of Forestry, "Carob Orchard Facility Project Feasibility Report and Investor Guide", Ankara, 2020. Eskisehir.
agriculture. gov. en/ DocumentsArchive/ Yat%C4%B1r%C4%B... Foreign sources
Batlle, I., Tous, J., "Carob tree. Ceratonia siliqua L. Promoting the conservation and use of underutilized and neglected crops. 17", Institute of Plant Genetics and Crop Plant Research, Gatersleben / International Plant Genetic Resources Institute, Rome, 1997. ISBN 92-9043-328-X. hdl.
handle. net/ 10568/ 104277 Dahmani, W., Elaouni, N., Abousalim, A., Akissi, Z. L. E., Legssyer, A., Ziyyat, A., Sahpaz, S., "Exploring Carob (Ceratonia siliqua L.): A Comprehensive Assessment of Its Characteristics, Ethnomedicinal Uses, Phytochemical Aspects, and Pharmacological Activities", Plants, 12(18), 3303, 2023. doi.
org/ 10. 3390/ plants12183303 Orwa, C., Mutua, A., Kindt, R., Jamnadass, R., Simons, A., "Agroforestree Database: a tree reference and selection guide, version 4.0 – Ceratonia siliqua", World Agroforestry Centre, 2009. apps.
Scientific Resourcesworldagroforestry. org/ treedb2/ AFTPDFS/ Ceratonia_sili...
