How to Plant Carob Saplings?
Carob is a long-lived tree, and the success of the garden over the decades largely depends on the steps taken during the planting phase. A planting at the right time, in suitable soil, with a tubular sapling with undamaged roots; The lifeline given afterwards and regular care in the first years ensure that the sapling holds and develops healthily.
In this article, we explain step by step the planting time, soil and pit preparation, spacing-distance selection, life water and maintenance procedures in the first years in the light of official guides in Turkey and international sources.
Before planting: selection of seedlings
The first decision to establish a carob garden is which sapling to start with. According to the investor guide of the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, two ways can be followed in the garden facility: Ungrafted saplings obtained from natural carob seeds can be planted and grafted in the garden after a year, or grafted 1+0 or 2+0 aged covered (tube) grafted saplings grafted in nurseries can be used.
The IPGRI monograph states that the common practice in carob is different from that of other fruit trees: Rootstocks are usually grafted on site one year after planting in the garden, not in the nursery, and this method has been shown to be superior in terms of the growth power of the tree (Batlle and Tous, 1997). Whichever way is chosen, it should be remembered that when carob is grown from seed, about half of the trees will grow male and will not bear fruit. Grafting is essential for a productive garden.
The main points to consider when choosing seedlings are:
- Preference should be given to seedlings with well-developed root systems (Batlle and Tous, 1997).
- It is not recommended to use bare-root saplings; Since carob is evergreen and its seedlings are sensitive to root drying, potted or tubular saplings should be used.
- The taproot must not be broken; In the Alanya Carob geographical indication document, it is emphasized that the root should not be broken for the development of the taproot.
- If grafted saplings are taken, the gender (female or hermad) and source of the variety should be known.
Julia Morton also states that large trees cannot be successfully transplanted in carob (Morton, 1987). For this reason, it is safest to work with young, covered saplings when establishing a garden.
Planting Time
When to plant carob saplings; It is determined by taking into account the frost risk of the region, whether the land can be irrigated or not, and the type of sapling. Two different approaches stand out in the sources:
| Source | Recommended planting time | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry (2020) | Autumn or spring, when the soil is tempered | Soil moisture and workability |
| Alanya Carob geographical indication certificate (2025) | Autumn on barren land; spring on irrigable land | Taking advantage of winter precipitation |
| IPGRI monograph (1997) | After the danger of frost has passed, the end of February-March | Sensitivity of seedlings to frost and root drying |
These differences are not contradictory, but complement each other according to the conditions of the region. Autumn planting on the southern coast of Turkey, in barren lands with warm winters and very few frosty days, allows the sapling to take root with winter rainfall. In places with a relatively high risk of frost, it is safer to plant in the spring, after the risk of frost has passed. In the geographical indication certificate, it is stated that grafted saplings are planted in early spring.
Regardless of the season chosen, planting should be done in a period when the soil is neither too wet nor too dry, that is, it is tempered.
Land and Soil Preparation
Once planted, carob will remain in the same place for decades, so land preparation must be done meticulously. The ministry guide recommends carefully selecting the garden soil, conducting the necessary analyzes, and preparing the soil at least one year before planting.
According to the same guide, a karst structure generally prevails in the distribution area of carob; for this reason, local tillage and cleaning of the saplings should be done in the places where the saplings will be planted. It is recommended to cultivate 40-60 cm deep soil where land and soil conditions allow. This process increases the physiological depth of the soil, gives the soil a granular structure, improves aeration and water retention, and allows roots to develop more easily.
In the Alanya Carob geographical indication certificate, it is emphasized that it is important for the development of saplings to prepare the lands to be planted with deep plowing (chrysma) and, if this cannot be done, to open a trough with a construction machine (Turkish Patent and Trademark Office, 2025). We discuss soil requirements in detail in our article "Soil Requirements for Carob Tree".
Spacing and Distance: How Many Saplings Are Planted Decare?
The planting spacing directly affects the future yield of the garden, ease of care and harvesting. Sources recommend different densities:
| Ministry guide | Saplings should be planted 6×6 m apart; this corresponds to approximately 28 saplings per decare. |
| Alanya Carob geographical indication certificate | There should be a distance of 5×5 m between the saplings, and about 40 seedlings can be planted on one acre. |
| IPGRI monograph | For dry farms established on poor soils on the Mediterranean coast, planting spacings of 100–175 trees per hectare, i.e. 9×9 m to 7×8 m, are recommended. The tree database of the World Agroforestry Centre gives the same range (Orwa et al., 2009). |
| Traditional gardens | According to the same monograph, the traditional density in Mediterranean countries is very low, such as 25-45 trees per hectare (20×20 m and 15×15 m). |
In the monograph, it is stated that planting more densely in fertile soil at the beginning and removing some of it (thinning) as the trees grow can increase early yields, but this is costly and most growers prefer to establish the garden with permanent density. The compression of trees leads to competition for light, nutrients and water, increased pruning costs and difficult harvesting.
When choosing the appropriate spacing, the depth and fertility of the soil, irrigation opportunity, the growth habit of the variety to be used and the harvesting method (by hand or machine) should be evaluated together.
Placement of Pollinator Trees
When preparing the planting plan, the location of male or male pollinator trees should also be determined. The IPGRI monograph states that approximately 12 percent pollinator trees (1 pollinator for 8 females) seem sufficient, and pollinators can be placed every three rows and between two female trees in rows. We discuss this issue in detail in our article "Male, Female and Male Trees in the Carob Tree".
Planting Pit and Planting Steps
According to the Ministry's guide, carob saplings should be planted in planting pits 30-40 cm deep, and a mixture of barnyard manure and soil should be filled in the empty places. Pits should be dug wide enough to include the entire root system. In the feasibility report of the Western Mediterranean Development Agency, approximately 1 ton of burnt farm manure per decare is recommended to be used in planting pits (Erbaş, 2024).
When we bring together the information in the sources, the planting steps can be listed as follows:
1. Open the pit
The pit is dug wide enough to comfortably accommodate the root ball of the sapling and at the depth recommended in the guide. The top and bottom soil from the pit can be left in separate piles.
2. Prepare the fertilizer and soil mixture
In the Alanya geographical indication certificate, it is recommended to apply well-burned animal manure (preferably sheep and goats) and base fertilizer to the soil during planting. Well-burned manure should be used as fresh manure can damage the roots.
3. Remove the seedling from its container
In the IPGRI monograph, it is recommended to remove the plastic pot by cutting it from top to bottom with a sharp knife. In the geographical indication certificate, it is emphasized that the pouch soil should not be distributed when the sapling is taken into the ground. Keeping the root ball whole allows the sapling to overcome the planting shock more easily.
4. Place the sapling upright and at the right depth
The sapling is placed in the pit so that the trunk is upright. The geographical indication certificate specifically states that the seedling should not be planted deep. It is important that the root collar remains at soil level.
5. Fill and compact the pit
According to the ministry guide, the pit should be filled with the soil at the top and the soil at the bottom to the top, and the soil should be compacted with the foot without damaging the sapling so that there is no air gap.
6. Drive in the herek (support stake)
The IPGRI monograph recommends that the seedlings be supported with a stake on the opposite side of the direction where the prevailing wind blows (downwind) in order to protect the saplings from the strong wind that is common in coastal areas and for the trunk to grow properly.
Life Water
Life water given immediately after planting is critical for the sapling to hold. According to the IPGRI monograph, trees should be watered thoroughly immediately after planting and soil moisture should reach below the root zone. This watering also helps to remove air pockets around the root. The second watering should be done within two weeks.
In the Alanya geographical indication certificate, it is stated that life water should be given after planting, and saplings planted in autumn should be watered according to rainfall (Turkish Patent and Trademark Office, 2025).
Care in the Early Years
Carob is extremely drought resistant in its adult form; however, the same is not true for young saplings. The care given in the first years determines the development of the tree's root system and its future yield.
Watering
According to the IPGRI monograph, watering 2-3 times in the first summer after planting in the garden is necessary for a successful facility in terms of wetting the root mass and the surrounding soil. Even in gardens without irrigation, it is stated that giving some water with a tractor and tank in late spring and summer during the first two years helps the tree to grow and start the product. The geographical indication certificate also emphasizes that irrigation must be done according to the climate and soil characteristics for two years after planting.
Fertilization
In the IPGRI monograph, it is recommended to fertilize regularly after planting and to give nitrogen in the form of ammonium instead of nitrate as it is easily taken. In the geographical indication certificate, it is stated that NPK, trace elements and organic matter needs should be met throughout development in the first years. The ministry guide, on the other hand, recommends the use of animal manure or carob pulp as fertilizer in the first planting. For details, you can see our article "Fertilization in Carob Tree".
Weed Control and Tillage
The ministry guide recommends weeding, hoeing and shoot control when necessary, depending on the land condition. In hot and dry periods, breaking the capillarity of the soil with weeding and hoeing positively affects the retention success of the saplings by reducing water loss from the soil. In the IPGRI monograph, it is emphasized that water and nutrient competition with weeds in young gardens can significantly reduce the growth power and yield of the tree.
Protection from Frost and Animals
Young carob seedlings are very sensitive to frost and need to be protected in frosty places (Batlle and Tous, 1997). In addition, the monograph states that cattle, horses, sheep and goats feed on the leaves of young and adult trees and can kill unprotected young trees, while rodents can cause serious damage to the roots and bark of young trees. For this reason, it is important to protect the seedlings with fences or protective trellises in gardens close to grazing areas.
Grafting and Shape Pruning
Ungrafted saplings are usually grafted in the garden in the spring, one year after planting. In grafted saplings, a slight shape pruning is done to form a crown in the first years. In the geographical indication certificate, it is stated that when the grafting height of the saplings reaches one meter, the tops are cut off and crowned. We discuss these issues in detail in our articles "Grafting Techniques in Carob Tree" and "How to Pruning in Carob Tree?".
When to get a crop after planting?
Carob is a slow-growing tree and this should be taken into account when establishing a garden. According to the IPGRI monograph, the crop-free period in the gardens in the border regions can last 6-8 years, while in better conditions, the crop starts 3-4 years after the graft; full yield is reached at the age of 20-25 years. Morton also states that grafted trees begin to bear fruit in their sixth year. The way to shorten this period is through choosing the right location, healthy saplings and regular maintenance in the first years.
Frequently Asked Questions
In which month are carob saplings planted? Planting is recommended in autumn in barren and low-frost risk lands, and in spring (end of February-March) in places that can be irrigated or have frost risk. Planting should be done when the soil is tempered.
How many meters should the distance between carob saplings be? The ministry guide recommends intervals of 6×6 m, the Alanya geographical indication certificate recommends 5×5 m, and the IPGRI monograph recommends intervals between 7×8 m and 9×9 m for poor barren soils.
How much should carob saplings be watered? Life water should be given at planting, the second watering should be done in two weeks, and it should be watered 2–3 times in the first summer. During the first two years, support irrigation is recommended in summer.
Can a garden be established with saplings grown from seeds? It can be established, but they must be grafted in the garden, since about half of these seedlings may come out male and the fruit quality will be variable.
From Carob Orchard to Product with Carob Türkiye
A carob sapling, planted correctly and well cared for in its first years, turns into a tree that can produce for decades. This process of establishing a garden, which requires patience, is also of great importance for the sustainability of carob production on our Mediterranean coasts.
At Carob Türkiye, we supply carob fruit, crumbs, flour/powder, seeds, and extracts. Our Products Carob Fruit and Our Products For general information about carob What is Carob? You can read our article. For your wholesale and export requests Contact Now You can contact us on our page.
Domestic resources
Republic of Turkey Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, General Directorate of Forestry, "Carob Orchard Facility Project Feasibility Report and Investor Guide", Ankara, 2020. Eskisehir.
agriculture. gov. en/ DocumentsArchive/ Yat%C4%B1r%C4%B... Turkish Patent and Trademark Office, "Alanya Carob / Alanya Carob – Mahreç Sign, Registration No: 1705", 2025. ci.
turkpatent. gov. en/ Files/ GeographicalSigns/ 7bbe4a8b- 399… Erbaş, S., "Carob Agriculture and Industry Feasibility Report", Western Mediterranean Development Agency, Publication No: 153, ISBN 978-605-4752-49-2, 2024. DEVELOPMENT LIBRARY.
gov. en/ assets/ upload/ files/ Keciboy... Foreign sources
Batlle, I., Tous, J., "Carob tree. Ceratonia siliqua L. Promoting the conservation and use of underutilized and neglected crops. 17", Institute of Plant Genetics and Crop Plant Research, Gatersleben / International Plant Genetic Resources Institute, Rome, 1997. ISBN 92-9043-328-X. hdl.
handle. net/ 10568/ 104277 Morton, J. F., "Carob", Fruits of Warm Climates, Miami, 1987. Growables.
org/ information/ TropicalFruit/ CarobMorton. htm Orwa, C., Mutua, A., Kindt, R., Jamnadass, R., Simons, A., "Agroforestree Database: a tree reference and selection guide, version 4.0 – Ceratonia siliqua", World Agroforestry Centre, 2009. apps.
Scientific Resourcesworldagroforestry. org/ treedb2/ AFTPDFS/ Ceratonia_sili...
