Carob in Cosmetics and Skin Care
Although carob is mostly known as food, gum obtained from its seed and extracts prepared from its fruit are also of interest to the cosmetics industry. Gum can be used as a thickener, emulsion stabilizer, and film-forming ingredient in creams and gels; extracts, on the other hand, are studied in laboratory studies due to the polyphenols they contain.
In this article, we discuss the forms in which carob is used in cosmetics, what research actually shows and what it has not yet shown, and why the language of claims in cosmetic products should be chosen carefully.
How Did Carob Enter the World of Cosmetics?
Cosmetic formulations use plant-derived raw materials for two main purposes: to ensure the texture and stability of the product (technical function) or to provide a specific care contribution to the skin (active ingredient approach). Carob is one of the rare herbal raw materials that has its counterpart in both areas.
On the technical function side, the product that stands out is locust bean gum, which is obtained from the endosperm of the kernel. This galactomannan is a thickener recognized in the food industry with the code E 410, and the same water-binding properties work in cosmetics. On the care side, the pulp and the kernel are rich in polyphenols, which has led researchers to study the antioxidant and skin cell effects of carob extracts.
A distinction must be made here from the outset: the technical functions of the range in cosmetics are well-defined and established uses in the industry. The possible benefits of extracts on the skin are largely based on laboratory (in vitro) studies and should not be presented as verified results on human skin.
Carob Components Used in Cosmetics
Different parts of the carob tree can be processed into raw materials that serve different cosmetic purposes:
| Raw Material | Source of | Essential role in cosmetics |
|---|---|---|
| Carob gamut | Nucleus endosperm | Consistency regulation, emulsion balancing, film forming |
| Fruit (pulp) extract | The fleshy part of the pod | Care ingredient researched for its polyphenol content |
| Seed extract | Whole kernel or shell | Raw material researched for antioxidant components |
| Peptide and oligosaccharide extracts | Kernel-borne, enzyme-treated | It has been described as a moisture and barrier-oriented ingredient in patent applications |
This table shows that the phrase "cosmetics with carob" alone does not say much. The thickening gum in a shampoo and the standardized polyphenol extract in a serum are completely different raw materials, although they come from the same plant. Therefore, formulators and purchasing teams should definitely read from the technical document from which part and by what method the raw material was obtained.
Functions of Carob Gum in Cosmetics
The ingredient database of CosmeticsEurope, the consumer information platform of the European cosmetics industry (COSMILE Europe), lists six functions for the ingredient with the INCI name "Ceratonia Siliqua Gum": binding in powder products, emulsion stabilization, forming a continuous film on the skin, hair and nails, auxiliary (excipient) function in perfume oils, emollient effect that softens and smoothes the skin, and control of product viscosity (COSMILE Europe).
| Viscosity control | It provides the desired fluidity in lotions, gels and shampoos. |
| Emulsion stabilization | It helps to delay the separation of the oil and water phases. |
| Creating a movie | After application, it leaves a thin and continuous layer on the surface. |
| Binding | It promotes integrity in compressed powder products such as powder. |
| Emollient feel | It creates a soft and smooth feeling on the skin. |
The property that determines the performance of the gum in cosmetics is the same as in food: it swells in water to form highly viscous solutions and synergizes with other hydrocolloids. Dionísio and Grenha (2012), who compiled the biopharmaceutical uses of carob gum, report that the gum shows the most effective synergy with xanthan gum and forms a tight, thermoreversible gel. This property is important for formulators who want to achieve the desired texture with a low total amount of polymer in cosmetic gels.
The safety of the gum as a food additive was re-evaluated by the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) in 2017; it was concluded that there are no safety concerns in the use of food additives for the general population and that there is no need for a numerical acceptable daily intake value (EFSA ANS Panel, 2017). However, this assessment is for oral ingestion; the safety of cosmetic products is revealed by a separate safety assessment stipulated by cosmetics legislation.
Carob Extracts and Antioxidant Components
The polyphenol content is behind the cosmetic "active" interest of carob. Stavrou et al. (2018), who compiled carob polyphenols, state that there are different phenolic groups such as gallic acid, flavonoids and tannins in the fruit and that they are associated with antioxidant capacity. Antioxidant capacity is important in terms of cosmetics; because sunlight and environmental factors cause oxidative stress in the skin.
Two recent studies have directly targeted the cosmetic potential of carob extracts:
Study on Cretan varieties: Kavvoura et al. (2023) examined pod and seed extracts of two Cretan carob varieties in laboratory tests associated with skin aging. Some fractions of the extracts suppressed the enzyme tyrosinase, which plays a role in melanin formation, and the collagenase enzyme, which breaks down collagen, in a laboratory environment. The seed extract increased cell viability in human skin fibroblasts exposed to UVB rays. The crude extracts did not reduce the viability of fibroblasts at the doses tested; however, some fractions showed toxic effects to cells. The researchers described the extracts as suitable candidates for use in cosmetics, but the study only covered cell and enzyme tests.
Extraction study carried out in Algeria: Ayad et al. (2022) examined the phenolic content, antioxidant activity, and sun protection factor (SPF) of fava bean extract obtained by ultrasonically-assisted extract, calculated by spectrophotometric method. The in vitro SPF value calculated under optimized conditions was found to be approximately 22. However, this value is a theoretical indicator calculated from the light absorption of a solution; no cream formulation was prepared and no test was performed on human skin.
On the seed side, Santonocito et al. (2020) discussed carob seeds with the question "Are they food waste or a source of bioactive compounds?"; reported that mature seed extracts showed higher antioxidant activity thanks to their procyanidin content. The authors stated that the extracts can be evaluated especially in the field of nutritional supplements and nutraceuticals.
Laboratory Finding and Effect on the Skin Are Not the Same
The most common mistake made in news and product promotions about carob extracts is to present the laboratory finding directly as "proven to benefit the skin". From a scientific point of view, the following steps should be separated from each other:
| Chemical tests | It indicates whether the extract neutralizes the free radical in a test tube. |
| Enzyme and cell tests | It measures the effect on a specific enzyme or cell type in a controlled environment. |
| Formulation tests | It investigates whether the ingredient remains stable in the cream and reaches the skin. |
| Human studies | It evaluates efficacy and skin compatibility under actual usage conditions. |
The carob studies cited above are in the first two steps. Just because an extract shows high antioxidant activity in a test tube does not mean that it will maintain the same activity in the cream, pass through the upper layers of the skin, or make a noticeable difference on wrinkles, blemishes, or sun damage. In particular, in vitro SPF values should not be confused with the SPF value on the label of a real sunscreen product.
The same attention is required in terms of safety. Being "natural" does not mean that every extract is harmless in every dose. In an early study conducted in Turkey, ethanol, methanol and water extracts prepared from carob leaves showed cytotoxic activity in the brine shrimp test (Kıvçak et al., 2002). Such findings remind us that before herbal extracts are used in cosmetics, it is necessary to identify which part of the plant, with which solvent and at what concentration they are obtained and to undergo a safety assessment.
Patent Applications Show Industry Interest
The place of carob in the cosmetics industry can be traced from patent applications as well as scientific articles. There are several applications for carob-derived cosmetic ingredients in the European PMC patent records:
- Application describing the use of carob peptide extract as an active ingredient to increase aquaporin expression in the epidermis (WO2011077017).
- Application (FR2905857) describing the topical application of a composition containing carob fruit pulp extract to moisturize the skin and protect it from drying out.
- Application describing the cosmetic use for skin repair of the extract containing oligogalactomannan obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis from the nucleus (FR2934779).
Patent applications show that companies view carob as a commercially valuable raw material. However, a patent protects the novelty and description of the invention; it does not alone replace independent scientific verification or evidence of clinical efficacy. In cosmetic product promotion, the existence of a patent should not be used as an efficacy claim.
Cosmetics Legislation and Claim Language
Cosmetic products in Turkey are regulated within the framework of the Cosmetics Law No. 5324 and the Cosmetic Products Regulation published in the Official Gazette dated May 8, 2023. The Turkish Medicines and Medical Devices Agency's (TİTCK) guideline on products bordering cosmetic products defines a cosmetic product as a product whose sole or main purpose is to cleanse, scent, change appearance, protect, keep in good condition or correct body odors in the external parts of the body. In the same guideline, a medicinal product for human use is also defined as a product used to treat or prevent disease, diagnose or correct a physiological function (TİTCK, KÜD-KLVZ-06).
This distinction is directly important for the promotion of cosmetic products containing carob. Statements such as "treats skin disease", "removes blemishes" or "repairs sun damage" are scientifically unsupported claims that may exclude the product from the definition of cosmetics. A more accurate approach is as follows:
| Phrase to avoid | More restrained expression |
|---|---|
| "Eliminates wrinkles" | "Contains carob extract" |
| "Natural sunscreen" | SPF is declared only by proper testing on the product |
| "Treats blemishes" | "A herbal component examined in laboratory studies" |
| "Proven anti-aging effect" | Only if there is work done with the product and to the extent of the result |
Things to Consider in Raw Material Selection for Cosmetics Manufacturer
A manufacturer looking to formulate a raw material originating from carob should focus more on technical specifications than on the product name:
- From which part of the plant (core endosperm, fruit flesh, seed shell, leaf) the raw material is obtained
- Dry matter or carrier content of solvent and extract used in extraction
- Viscosity range, moisture and insoluble matter values for the gamut
- Standardization parameters such as total phenolic substance for the extract
- Microbiological values and residue analysis
- Batch-based traceability and analysis certificate
Composition in herbal raw materials; It may vary depending on the variety, growing conditions and processing method. Kavvoura et al.'s (2023) comparison of two different varieties also draws attention to this variability. For this reason, for a consistent cosmetic product, it is at least as important as the formula that the raw material complies with the same specification in each batch.
Frequently Asked Questions
What name is carob used in cosmetic labels? The carob gum appears in the INCI lists under the name "Ceratonia Siliqua Gum". The name of the extracts may differ depending on the part of the plant from which it is obtained; therefore, it is necessary to refer to the supplier's technical document.
Can carob extract be used instead of sunscreen? In vitro SPF values calculated in the laboratory do not indicate the protection that a product will provide in real use. Products that have undergone appropriate tests should be used for sun protection.
Does carob gum moisturize skin? Gum is defined in cosmetic databases as an emollient and film-forming ingredient. These functions are related to creating a soft feel and a thin film on the skin; it should not be interpreted as a therapeutic moisturizing effect on its own.
Is it safe to make a mask with carob powder at home? Scientific studies on the effect of carob powder consumed as food on the skin are limited. Care should be taken against the risk of irritation on sensitive skin; a specialist should be consulted for skin problems.
Carob Raw Materials with Carob Türkiye
Carob is a versatile plant that can provide the cosmetics industry with raw materials both as a range with a technical function and as a source of polyphenols, which are the subject of research. For the correct assessment of this potential, it is necessary to clearly define which part the raw material comes from and the product claims should not go beyond scientific evidence.
At Carob Türkiye, we supply carob fruit, crumbs, flour/powder, kernel and extract. For the main properties of carob What is Carob? and What is Carob Extract? You can read our articles; Carob Extract and Carob Seed You can review our pages. For your wholesale and export requests You can contact us.
This content is for informational purposes only; it is not a substitute for medical advice.
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